I'm a title. Click here to edit me.
Gorgeous Gadabouts - textile retreat in Bali
Creative Living Retreats evolved from my 20 years as a gallery director in Perth, alongside my love of yoga and making art. Now, after 8 years, and 19 painting retreats later, here is the first textile retreat, working with Perth-based designer Roberta Leary. Indonesia's textile traditions are rich and varied, and here on Bali, tucked into the mountains close to where I call 'home', is the Bali Aga village ('traditional Balinese') of Tengenan, famed for its double ikat hand-weaves. Tengenan is an important destination for discerning collectors who appreciate the mind-boggling complexity of these fabrics where the pattern is pre-dyed into the weft threads (for 'double ikat') and / or the warp threads (for single ikat) to produce the uniquely recognisable motifs which have enjoyed a 'fashion moment' in recent years. Visiting Tengenan for a detailed encounter with its villagers and their traditions has been just one of the activities this week, as a group of twelve textile enthusiasts joined fashion designer Roberta Leary and me for a week-long retreat to create our own textiles whilst learning about local traditions, meeting artisans and sinking into the languid pace of life in the secluded seaside village I call 'home'. Mendira village is a pleasant 90-minute along the south coast from Bai's airport, but for those who knew the island in the 70's, it's a step back in time. A gateway to the less-visited eastern part of the island, the nearby town of Candi Dasa retains the charm of 'the old Bali' : streets not choked by traffic, (no-one wearing face masks against the pollution experienced in Kuta or Seminyak these days ), no high rise development, and just enough smart restaurants and bars to keep it interesting. It's Slow-Living, and it's why we love it. A perfect place to retreat, and just one of the reasons I've called my Creative Living Retreats retreats, and not workshops … the other reason is the yoga. Yoga has been a 'refuge' for me throughout my adult life … a place, a feeling, a practice to drop into with more-or-less regularity … often, when life is busy, it's' less', so to offer twice-daily yoga sessions as part of the art retreats seems like one of life's ultimate luxuries. Our participants turn up at 9am for a 30-minute stretch, and lay down tools at 5 pm to start the 90-minute practice which varies each afternoon, according to the energy of the group This year we've all been completely charmed by Angelina (above, at Villa Nilaya). Her guided practices gently coaxed limbs and ligaments into alignment, surprising us with small challenges along the week's yoga journey - "just give it a go", she'd say, and indeed we did ! - and when the day's activities had been intense, our time 'on the mat' became restorative, with supported poses of deep rest and rejuvenation, her poetry bringing peaceful imagery to our mind's eye as the endless ebb and flow of the sea below lulled us towards the close of the day. Even those who didn't participate in the yoga found it recuperative to simply lie on the mat and listen. Yoga's like that. What bliss to arise in the dimming evening light from a 25-minute shavasana (a restful pose lying on the mat), and tread downstairs to find candles flickering on dark teak, and delicious Balinese cuisine prepared by Ketut and Nengah awaiting our hungry arrival. My vision of yoga being the 'vessel' holding each retreat has been beautifully realised by Angelina, and I'm delighted that she will be joining us here for all the new retreats in 2022. Roberta is something of a textile guru in Western Australia, and to enjoy her undivided attention and sheer love of teaching for a whole six days was a dream come true - I've been cooking up textile retreat ideas ever since I visited the island of Flores 6 years ago, and this year it became a joyful reality. Our retreat began at 9 am on Day 1 with a traditional Balinese Welcome Blessing of each participant at Villa Nilaya, the home I built by the sea here 8 years ago. It's the 'retreat hub' - the place where all the art and yoga happens for the next 6 days, punctuated at regular intervals by breaks for fragrant Bali coffee, gingered tea, healthy buffet lunches and every alternate night, dinners drawing on the zesty flavours of east Bali, where life remains more authentically traditional than most other parts of the island. Retreatants walk the 4-8 minutes from their choice of various beachside bungalows and hotels in the village which I've booked for them many months in advance (it's high season here during Southern hemisphere winter), along a quiet village track, arriving just in time to head upstairs to the yoga room overlooking the sea, for some breathing practice, dynamic movement and a 5-minute shavasana before heading downstairs to the outdoor workspace. This happens each day - yoga sets the scene. Our first day was spent learning the first seven of many complex techniques developed in Japan, to create both subtle and dramatic patterns on fabric by pleating the fabric and binding it in different ways to create a 'resist' in the dye bath. Roberta is a patient teacher. Everyone gets to try everything on a silk scarf or a rayon sarong before deciding what they want to do for their garment - a silky kaftan or a linen shrug - and the dyeing itself is an afternoon of 'bucket chemistry' with local sea salt mordanting the dyes and soda ash to fix them. Once the rinsing water runs clear it's time to untie the binds and see what happened! Shibori dyeing is an elegant 'resist' technique, the predictability of the outcome imperfect, so unwrapping the dyed fabric is always an exciting surprise. Some chose jewel colours as bright as tropical blooms, but perhaps it was no surprise that sapphire blue, indigo and sea green were most popular, given that we were working beneath towering coconut palms and jungle-y foliage just 20 metres away from the shoreline of the beach at the bottom of the garden. After our staff have ironed the fabrics, each garment is cut by Roberta and sent to our local tailors to make up... Meanwhile, there's more to do, and the next technique to master is that of stencilling fabric. We've chosen elegant arabesques this year, with a hint of Morocco in the background, and learning to align or register the stencil on the fabric, to repeat the design is a good grounding for creating one's own designs. Roberta has thoughtfully chosen designs to include shapes which can be embroidered into, and lines which can be stitched along, so the possibilities for embellishment are myriad, and the likelihood of pleasing outcomes high. European cushion covers or long-eastern style bolsters in dyed or natural linen, printed all over by hand in a contrasting or tonal shades providing the base for the following days when Roberta introduced a repertoire of easy-to-learn stitches to make a swift start. At every turn, colour and design are considered and discussed. what makes something 'exciting', and 'pop' ? How could one take a chance and make the safe choice 'sing'? Here Karen Sabitay came to the fore with her artists's eye turning to a palette of silken threads rather than paint. Throughout the week surprises abound, one of our most popular events is a hands-on cooking lesson with our executive chef, Dewa Ardika. We cook a Balinese heritage menu before enjoying our efforts over dinner and cocktails. June and July are temperate times in Bali, with only occasional rain, so it was on such a day that we decided to head for the hills to visit a batik studio specialising in the use of natural indigo and pomegranate skin dyes, whose use was explained in some detail before our textile passions were unleashed in the boutique over morning tea. With shopping desires quenched, a visit to an ancient temple site preceded a leisurely lunch overlooking verdant rice paddies, before the meandering drive home, via Sideman's famously picturesque terraces. Yoga at 5pm, as usual, and dinner at home brought to a close a perfect penultimate day. Our final day, day 6, was dedicated to concentrated completion of various works, or at least enough headway made to be able to continue, most participants taking away skeins of thread and tiny tassels brought by Anna from Morocco, to complete their works at home. There will be a finishing day with Roberta at her studio in Perth for sewing up the cushion covers and making sure that everyone has achieved their goal of completing 3 pieces during this 6-day retreat. And the final night ? Instead of hanging works of art on the wall, each garment was worn to dinner at a jazz club in town, after a fashion parade and drinks at Villa Nilaya - who could have imagined that those bolts of white cloth 6 days ago could have become the jewels of wafty silk modelled by each artist? AMAZING results !! Who came to this retreat ? This first textile retreat has been a revelation, attracting professional women who love the meditative peace that decorative stitching brings, a mother and her three 20-something daughters, all of whom have become 'sewing converts', textile collectors, and others who having experienced the painting retreats here decided to turn their hand to other creative endeavours. As diverse as the group was, the love of fabulous textiles and the urge to make things was the common ground from which we began, and by the end of the retreat, friendships have been forged which will last long after the retreat finishes - this lovely outcome so often the result of spending dedicated time together. Whilst many had practiced yoga before to some extent, others who were less able never the less found the yoga environment conducive to wellbeing, and our yoga teacher is more than capable of creating alternative sequences and poses for those at different levels, and a wide array of dietary preferences were catered for. The aim of this retreat, as it is for all of my Creative Living Retreats, is to provide a supported environment where participants can float from one activity to another without wondering how it's all going to happen. Activities, meals, materials, trips and transport … it's all taken care of for 6 splendid days by the sea. Thank you for reading, I hope you enjoyed the story - do please share! and now you can leave me a comment below - I'd love to hear from you - and I'll be sure to get back to you, Painting Retreat with Cate Edwards Bali's Spiritual Landcsape Art Yoga Writing Retreats 2022 FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
Negombo Coconut Crab Curry - Spice Voyager Recipe #3
Sri Lankan Crab Curry, a signature seafood dish from the shores of the Negombo Lagoon cooked at home with Sri Lanka's premium cinnamon - Cinnamon Alba A delicately-spiced, lightly-textured curry with an exceptional aroma - preparing this with fresh spices is a joy in itself! ANNA'S TIP I'm not using curry powder in this recipe. Home cooking often uses pure spices ground freshly so that the the flavour can be controlled to really highlight the flavours of the meat. The delicately-flavoured crab meat is complemented here with fresh curry leaves and cinnamon, see my blog: The Spice That Put Sri Lanka On The Map For this recipe I am using the very highest grade of cinnamon available in the cinnamon market anywhere. It’s called ‘Cinnamon Alba’ for the pale colour of the thin quills whose immediate sweetness is followed by a bright tang without any bitterness, the delicate texture and the gorgeous aroma. It’s such a cleansing flavour hit that a small piece is a very pleasant mouth freshener – remember Cinnamon Tic Tacs? … a piece of Cinnamon Alba is more tasty and no sugar, and True Ceylon Cinnamon has health benefits too, which Cassia cinnamons from Vietnam, China and Indonesia do not. True Ceylon Cinnamon is graded into qualities. 'Cinnamon Alba' shows densely-packed quills, yielding a sweet, pure flavour with outstanding aroma (top upper quill) Medium and poor qualities are coarser, darker and more fibrous, with less aroma and flavours that can be bitter. Below: cinnamon alba on the left shows its pedigree. ANNA'S TIP Buy your cinnamon as quills, reassuring yourself that when you grind or grate it for powder, your spice is the quality you paid for, and not a mix of who-knows-what. Where to get Cinnamon Alba NOW FOR THE CRAB CURRY Cooking time 37 minutes Here's what you’ll need for each person Prepare all the Ingredients before you start cooking, as this all happens very quickly! 1x 500 - 600 gm (in shell) crab per person - this will yield about 150 km of white meat (in the claws and the cavities of the 'purse' on the underside ), and about 50-60 gm of brown meat. I'm cooking a freshly caught lagoon mud crab. The Aromatic Spices : the 3 C’s Sri Lankan Cinnamon 3 cm broken into pieces. Use the best quality you can find Cloves - 5 whole Cardamom - 2 whole pods crushed All the curry flavourings Fresh ginger - 2 cm, peeled, sliced and finely chopped Garlic cloves - 4 large, finely chopped Pandanus leaf - 12 cm (optional – it enhances the aroma, barely affecting the flavour – although pandanus leaves that I use in Bali add a distinctive colour and flavour … so this is very regionally dependent) Red onion - ½ large onion, sliced into slivers Tomato - 1 large, chopped Curry Leaves - 35 fresh or dried, whole Red chilli powder - 1 very heaped teaspoon Turmeric powder - 1 level teaspoon Black pepper - 1 rounded teaspoon of freshly ground pepper Salt - half a level teaspoon Green chillies - 2 sliced diagonally, seeds left in Lime - 1quartered and de-seeded for garnish Vegetable oil of frying – 1 tablespoon Wok and stirring spoon, and a warmed serving dish Prepare Your Crab with Kindness Crabs are best cooked immediately after killing, and once a crab dies if it’s not immediately cleaned then the crab is unfit for human consumption. So trying to do this as humanely as possible, the RSPCA recommends putting the crab in the freezer for 45 - 60 minutes so that it becomes slow and lethargic - and possibly desensitized. Don't freeze it completely. This is preferable to dropping it into boiling water, which apart from all the other considerations, causes the animal to contract with stress and toughens the the meat. You can prepare the crab pieces in various ways, but for this recipe : Lay the crab on its back and with a tea towel beneath it or the board, for traction, and twist off the front black-tipped claws - this is where most of the best meat is. Now put the crab on its back with the eyes towards you and, using both hands, push up the six legs. Press your two thumbs either side of the eyes and push away the triangular ‘purse’ or 'apron' (that is the central body part). Male or female crab? On a female crab (which may have roe beneath this plate), the apron is oval shaped, and on a male it is triangular. Don't wash all the flavour out! You will now need to clean the crab by peeling off the back shell and discarding it. Use your fingers to pull off the feathery gills - called 'old man's fingers' - at either side which are just attached at the shell's edge (it is essential to remove these - they should not be eaten - very bitter). Clean out the remaining guts - or not - depending on your taste. The brown organs are strongly flavoured and may be to your taste. In any case, don't wash this shell too vigorously, or you'll loose all the tasty bits. You can cut the crab in half or quarters - for this recipe it's quartered. So, now using a heavy knife, cut the round purse into four with the legs attached. This exposes the white meat, which can be picked out. At this point you could freeze your crab prior to cooking it or cook it, but remember that cooking times are a little faster when you have an already cleaned crab Here's a very helpful video showing crab cleaning from the Sydney Fish Market - YouTube DON'T FORGET to crack the big claws with a mallet or crackers to allow all the cooking flavours to penetrate the meat, just before you start cooking. How to Cook Choose a wok which will allow you to give the crabs plenty of room to be tossed around Heat the oil in the wok on high heat. Fry the garlic and ginger 1 minute, stirring Add cloves, cinnamon and cardamom and cook for 2 minutes, stirring Add the pandanus leaf (optional) Add the curry leaves and fry for 2 minutes, stirring Add onions, stir for 30 seconds Add turmeric powder, stir for 30 seconds Add salt and chilli powder, stir for 30 seconds Add tomatoes, stir for 30 seconds Add the green chillies, stir for 30 seconds Add all of the crab and stir to cover the crab in all of the other ingredients Add 1 tablespoon water, place lid on wok and cook on ‘high’ for 15 minutes Remove from heat, stir thoroughly, reduce heat by ¼ Add 1 tablespoon water, stir and re-cover. Cook for a further 5 minutes, or until water starts to collect on the inside of the lid. Now reduce heat by another ¼, to half , re-cover and cook for a further 10 minutes. Add the coconut milk, stir, and cook without lid until desired gravy consistency. Turn entire contents into heated dish and serve immediately. How to serve ? This dish is traditionally served in Sri Lanka with a vegetable called ‘drumsticks’, or murunga, but sliced okra stir fried with a little garlic, is a delicious alternative. Some serve it with coriander or parsley leaves for a pop of colour, although I find neither flavour a pleasing addition. A squeeze of little lime is my choice, but really, the curry is good just the way it is. A bowl of rice? – I prefer the ‘heritage’ varieties of red rice, with their coarser, nutty flavour and very low GI (so you won’t feel hungry quickly, and much healthier and nutritious in many ways), and a salad. Thank you for reading, I hope you enjoy this one! If you would like to receive my stories and postcards straight into your mailbox, please consider subscribing to my monthly newsetter. OTHER SPICE VOYAGER RECIPES and STORIES FROM SRI LANKA Negombo's Famous Ceylon Crabs Rajasthani Biryani Sri Lankan Spiced Fruit Cake Where to get True Sri Lankan Cinnamon The Spice That Put Sri Lanka On The Map - the truly fascinating story of Cinnamon FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram Postscript 5 July, 2021 ; https://wapo.st/2UrjnYA - from The Telegraph, reporting on Animal Rights.
"Gdziekolwiek, byle upalnie" : polsko-australijskie historie powojenne
A story of Polish postwar-emigration: a collaboration between Anna Kwiecinska and Kinga Urbanska, a genealogist and founder of www.yourrootsinpoland.com, based in Crakow, the hometown of my father, Zbigniew Tadeuscz Kwiecinski. Published today, June 2, on the 99th anniversary of his birth in Poland, the country he fled in 1949 to make a new life in Australia. This article appears today in Poland's newsportal ONET Here's the original English version Wielu jest takich polskich bohaterów, którzy w wyniku zawieruchy II wojny światowej emigrowali – dla wielu ta emigracja była przymusem. Jednym z nich był Zbigniew Tadeusz Kwieciński, wnuk Macieja Kwiecińskiego zasłużonego polskiego lekarza. Jak wyglądała jego droga do Australii i budowanie nowego domu po drugiej stronie kuli ziemskiej, o miłości, rodzinie, długim cieniu przeszłości – opowiada jego córka – Anna Kwiecińska. Urodzony w Krakowie, tato miał zaledwie 17 lat, kiedy został zmobilizowany do Wojska Polskiego w sierpniu 1939 r. Początkowo służył w jednostce obserwacyjnej pułku artylerii przeciwlotniczej, ale w listopadzie 1939 roku został zaprzysiężony, jako członek Polskiego Państwa Podziemnego. Zbigniew służył wówczas głównie w jednostkach wywiadowczych, gdzie szczególnie cenna była jego doskonała znajomość języka niemieckiego. W randze kapitana został w 1944 roku aresztowany przez Niemców i wysłany do obozu jenieckiego w Niemczech, gdzie w następnym roku został uwolniony przez aliantów. W obozie dla przesiedleńców w Ingolstadt poznał Węgierkę, z którą miał wyemigrować do Australii w 1949 roku. Kiedy spotkałam ją wiele lat później, w Perth - Zachodniej Australii, przypomniała sobie pierwsze słowa taty, które wypowiedział jej we wspólnym tańcu: „Jeszcze tego nie wiesz, ale zostaniesz moją żoną”. Korzenie taty sięgały Bielska Białej, a tamtejsze długie, mroźne zimy były powodem, dla którego oświadczył: „gdziekolwiek, byle upalnie” - gdy został poproszony o wskazanie preferowanego kraju do repatriacji powojennej. Gdyby nie jego niecierpliwość, by zejść ze statku z Neapolu w chwili, gdy po raz pierwszy zacumował w Australii, mogłabym dorastać w Melbourne (jeszcze przez kilka tygodni żeglugi dalej na wschód). Jak się okazało, Fremantle (miasto portowe w zachodniej Australii) był tam, gdzie on i Elly wysiedli i natychmiast wsiedli do pociągu w głąb lądu, aby spędzić kilka następnych lat w kolejnym tymczasowym hostelu, tym razem na odludziu w Zachodniej Australii, gdzie Tata po raz kolejny wyróżniał się swoimi umiejętnościami językowymi. Dad's Application to seek asylum in Australia Australijczycy z Zachodu nazywają siebie „sandgropers” - kochamy plażę! Wielu (większość) jego współczesnych mu Polaków, a czasem ich dzieci - moje pokolenie - zawsze uważało, że Polska jest naprawdę domem, ale tata zawsze był dumny, nazywając siebie „Sandgroperem”, ponieważ całym sercem uczynił Australię swoim domem – wraz z moją matką, dziewczyną z Perth - której dziedzictwo w Australii Zachodniej sięga czasów przybycia pierwszych brytyjskich osadników w latach dwudziestych XIX wieku. The Anna Salen, Naples - Australia ... the ship that Dad and Ellie travelled on from Europe. It's been suggesed that I was named after a ship, but actually I remained unnamed for a fortnight before my mother's aunt suggested 'Anna' (after the ballerina, and yes, I went to ballet lessons from 3 years of age) Dziś, po kilku podróżach, które odbyłam z Tatą do Polski, w połączeniu z nostalgią moich dorosłych lat, mogę tylko zacząć wyobrażać sobie ogromny wysiłek, który zawładnął jego życiem wewnętrznym, jakim było stłumienie przeszłości, aby zapewnić przyszłość rodzinie. w 1945 roku - grzechotał w naszej szufladzie ze sztućcami, jego wojskowy beret w szafce i tajemniczy, wepchnięty z tyłu jego szafy, ciężki skórzany, wojskowy płaszcz. Mój tata niewiele mówił o wojnie. Polish ex-servicemen in Tasmania, 1948 Ciągły głód, „tajne misje” we Lwowie, jego matka zmarła z powodu wylewu krwi do mózgu zaledwie kilka dni po tym, jak była świadkiem rozstrzeliwania żydowskich sąsiadów na ulicy pod jej oknem w Krakowie... te kilka obrazów pozostało w mojej wyobraźni, aby wypełnić wiele luk a propos ostatnich lat taty w Polsce podczas drugiej wojny światowej. Dad with his in-laws, my grandparents: Malcolm &Thelma Jones, Auntie Maidie and Mum. My parents met at a repertory theatre - Mum was a script editor, and Dad did the make-up! Zdjęć było kilka. Ponadto pamiątki: widelec armii amerykańskiej - kwestia regulacyjna dla wyzwolonych z obozów jenieckich To były jedyne trzy obiekty z „przeszłości taty”. Tło, z którego nic nie zostało, nawet krewni. Zawsze wdzięczny, że był ojcem dwóch córek, a nie synów, „bo dziewczyny nigdy nie będą musiały iść na wojnę”. Był jednak staroświecki w kwestii dyscypliny, w myśl, której „dzieci i ryby głosu nie mają”. Maszerowałam korytarzem do łóżka - „raz, dwa, trzy, cztery” – tato często kołysał moją siostrę i mnie do snu, nucąc polskie pieśni partyzanckie lub ten wojenny klasyk Marleny Dietrich „Lili Marleen” po niemiecku, którym jak już wiadomo, mówił doskonale. Jeśli mama spała zbyt długo w szkolne poranki, zwykle tato nakazywał mi „wskrzeszać ją do działania” wersją Reverie na trąbkę, a nasze gnuśne zachowanie było potępiane słowami: „Obudź się, Twój kraj cię potrzebuje!”. „Patrzę na to teraz i zdaję sobie sprawę, jaka maleńka byłaś”, mówi mama, unosząc plisowaną bawełnianą sukienkę, która była moim pierwszym mundurem Brownie [juniorki w Girl Guides]. „Wydawałaś się taką dużą dziewczyną”. Zazwyczaj w każdą sobotę po południu dochodziło do bójki, aby dostać się do Brownie na czas. Po porannych lekcjach mowy i gry na fortepianie z mamą, czasami towarzyszyłam tacie w drodze do „europejskiego rzeźnika”, żeby kupić polskie ogórki, śmierdzące sery, pomarszczone kiełbaski i ciemny, gęsty chleb. Przed spotkaniem Brownie, tato zawsze musiał dokładnie sprawdzić mój mundur. Polerowany od krawata, błyszczący pasek, niezmiennie na nowo układał mi beret. Ze stanowczością i zręcznością sierżanta, część mojego munduru, która najmniej mi się podobała, została przesunięta z niepewnego położenia z tyłu mojej głowy na właściwe miejsce - czyli dokładnie 1 cal nad moimi oczami. Mały żołnierz był wreszcie w pełni przygotowany do akcji. W międzyczasie tata spędził wiele sobotnich popołudni w domu, słuchając w radio meczy piłki nożnej i malując metalowe tablice, których słowa w posrebrzanej płaskorzeźbie upamiętniają żołnierzy Australii Zachodniej zabitych lub zaginionych podczas pierwszej wojny światowej. Każda tablica została umieszczona u podnóża wysokiego drzewa eukaliptusowego wyścielającego kilometry „Alei Honoru” we wspaniałym Parku Królewskim na Górze Elizy w Perth. Chociaż tata ostatecznie przewodniczył komitetowi RSL [Returned Services League – organizacja wspierającą osoby, które służyły lub służą w Siłach Obronnych Austrlii] w Sub-Branch Highgate zarządzającym Aleją Honoru, ta historia dzieje się dużo wcześniej. Dla niego utrwalanie i przechowywanie tych przejmujących zapisów, świadczących o tysiącach ludzi, którzy wypłynęli, by walczyć o wolność, było sposobem na okazanie wdzięczności krajowi, który przyjął go na swoje łono w 1949 roku. Jednak tablice te wymagały przemalowywania z taką częstotliwością, że nawet, jako praca łącząca pobudki serca z obowiązkami obywatelskimi, stała się ciężarem dla starzejącego się mężczyzny. Pomocnicy taty też nie stawali się młodsi, podobnie jak ich kolana. Coraz więcej tabliczek było przywożonych do domu do samodzielnego naprawienia. Kiedy ja dołączałam do malowania liter na srebrno po tym, jak tata skończył je czyścić drucianą szczotką i pokrywał błyszczącą czarną emalią, szybko okazało się, że małe, zwinniejsze palce mogą z łatwością wykonywać tę pracę. I tak właśnie, po długich konsultacjach, Girl Guides w Australii Zachodniej połączyło się z RSL, aby zezwolić na usługi Brownies w utrzymaniu tego miejsca publicznej pamięci, a nasz czas został doceniony poprzez przyznanie upragnionej „Odznaki za służbę”. Nie jestem pewna, kiedy ta wyjątkowa symbioza ustała, ale ostatecznie Kapitan Harms przeszła na emeryturę, a ja opuściłem Girl Guides. Tata pozostał niezwykle aktywny w RSL przez 50 lat członkostwa, podczas gdy mniej więcej w tym czasie założył Mensę w Zachodniej Australii - ale to już inna historia! Archival images courtesy of Victoria Collections: Polish Museums and Archives in Australia Exhibitions on Polish heroes in the Western Australian Parliament in Perth - 6-15 November 2018 - News - Institute of National Remembrance ipn.gov.pl Brief History of Poland - Institute of National Remembrance ipn.gov.pl FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
Living in Sri Lanka - foraging in lockdown
For the last ten months I’ve been living on a skinny isthmus of land that separates the Negombo Lagoon from the Laccadive Sea on the southwestern edge of Sri Lanka. The warm sea currents ebb and flow refreshing the vast Arie Lagoon, whose placid, watery fields yield crabs so splendid that even in Singapore's seafood restaurants they're known as 'Ceylon Crab'. With its densley-populated canals, fishing communities and many beachside hotels, Negombo and its larger Gampha district have endured more and longer lockdowns than most other parts of the island these last 15 months. Out here on the edges of the lagoon, literally 'fringe dwellers', we cling to the mangrove-edged shores, where harvesting lagoon or sea is the main economic activity. It has no postcode, and no street name. 'Thalahena' says it all. Thalahena, Negombo, Sri Lanka. Thalahenites survive the stringently-enforced lockdowns knowing they can sustain themselves with seafood, the bartered produce of household gardens and subsidised staples of rice and lentils. But what happens when a ship whose leaky containers catch fire, spilling nitric acid into the sea just beyond the port it was waiting to enter? Image: Al Jazeera: The fire broke out while the Singapore-flagged MV X-Press Pearl was anchored about 9.5 nautical miles (18 kilometres) northwest of the capital, Colombo [Ishara S. Kodikara/AFP] Within days of the MS Pearl raging uncontrollably with oil-fed flames just offshore from here, fishing was banned for a distance of 8o km along the coast, and suddenly there wasn't a boat to be seen on the lagoon either. Deprived of work, my neighbours mend their nets, attend to home improvements and spend uncountable hours chatting, waiting for the monsoon to swoop in, when they can justifiably do even less. Antsy adolescents turn up their awful amplifiers, and little girls in pleated frocks play hopscotch in our lane, thankfully too narrow for vehicles to enter. Now entering our second month of lockdown, I don’t step beyond my gates, save for the bread man to whose fluffy sweet wares I’ve finally succumbed as my food stores diminish. A sweet bun pumped with raspberry-coloured glug arrives oven-warm in a singing tuktuk at the irresistible hour of 3 pm. It’s tempting to buy two. His 6am counterpart brings giant slices of pre-toasted bread and flaky curried vegetable pastries. If I feasted on nothing else but bakery products all day I’d spend less than a dollar, and, yes, undoubtedly sport the pot belly that most people here - man, woman and many children – carry about unselfconsciously. Vegetables have become pricey. Fatal floods destroyed market gardens upcountry in a pre-monsoon deluge two weeks ago. It seems that the Teadrop Isle can't take a trick at the moment. The delicious curry aromas that used to waft into my garden when I first moved here two months ago have ceased, and I’m guessing that in the absence of fresh fish and affordable vegetables, seasonal yams and jackfruit are filling up families. Unfortunately, I’ve not yet acquired the taste for a nice starchy tuber curry, so when Saranga calls on Saturday morning to say the supermarkets have re-opened , we're on our way immediately - I'm imagining long queues and my favourite brown bread already disappeared. Saranga is my tuk tuk driver. I say 'mine', because he's always on the spot, helps me avoid dud fruit and vegetables, and will trundle through a rainstorm to deliver a new battery for my mouse. These days, any travel is exciting. Four kilometres towards the mouth of the inlet, and the famous fish markets by the bridge, normally a thronging, smelly hub of commerce, are abandoned. Image (A.K.): Negombo fish markets, 19 June We navigate the zig zag of security barriers and I flip open my passport for an officer who may have been in school last week. Already he’s acquired the contrapposto stance that accompanies the insouciance I associate with ill-fitting khaki uniforms anywhere.
It's eerily quiet. A few trucks sell pineapples and papaya. The supermarket is closed. And the next one. All of them. So much for urban rumours. "Let's try the Tamils?" I suggest, remembering a dark, cluttered shop where it takes two people to ring through the purchases - one to read the label, the other to punch in the keys. There's a small queue, no sanitiser, and a curiosity towards me that wearing a mask seems to facilitate with less covertness than usual. The spherical little lady in front of me, barefoot but well dressed with flared frock and a dipping petticoat whose broderie anglaise edging suddenly reminds me of a school sewing project, crinkles her eyes in friendly acknowledgement. I love these guys. Sacks are shouldered from their footpath delivery into a backroom where young men operating heat-sealing machines busily re-pack everything from chia seeds to dates into small, unlabelled bags piled up on messy shelves. Grains, spices, cornflakes, OJ and aforementioned seeds and dried fruits - a month's worth for around 10,000 rupees (reality check: a housekeeper working 8 hrs /day, Monday-Saturday earns 25,000 - 40,000 rupees) Should you ever need to find them, just ask for the church of St Sebastian (the one that suffered the brunt of the Easter Sunday bombings two years ago), with this shiny shrine pointing the way. On the way out I'm pinched on the back by the petticoat lady who grins when I whip around to see what the heck. Around the corner, the only organic fruit vendor I know of keeps a low profile. The gate's locked. He only has what he has. There might be pineapples in abundance one day, and boxes of straw-packed eggs the next. But I come to see him for the best chili paste and chili-with-Maldive-fish sambal I've ever tasted. It's in another home-packed bag, and through the door I see his wife and daughter smoothing out gilded foil on cardboard cake plate circles ... Tamil home industry at work again. Today he has dragon fruit and avocadoes. Hmm, could be a painting too. And the man in the truck across the road has a great deal on papaya ... 50 rupees a kilo (that's 30c). Saranga knocks them all for a strong hollow sound and chooses a good one as big as a soccer ball. We're doing well here. Now unless you have need to visit a pharmacy in Sri Lanka, chances are you'll never know the riches they can offer. Choose one close to a fancy private hospital, and it's surprising what's inside. Slipping past the prescription queue inside the aptly-named 'Unique Pharmacy', I make straight for the till, behind which sits a low display stand piled with a random assortment of ridiculously expensive imported delicacies. Older Sri Lankans remember the days when bringing back anything imported was enough to guarantee Christmas cards for life; when lipstick was a luxury and foreign labels the bee’s knees. The thrill of finding an industrial-sized jar of Polski ogorki cannot be over-estimated, but the true gold? Real pesto Genovese sauce. OMG. I’ve suddenly become a hoarder. That evening my new landlord drops in – did I tell you I’ve moved? - apologising that he couldn’t bring a bottle of wine, but would the brandy do? ”All the bloody liquor stores have been closed for weeks.” “Oh well, maybe that’s not such a bad thing for a little while?”, I venture. “Yes, yes, but all my friends are saying our wives are looking like witches” he laments. I’m mentally scanning these two parameters for cause and effect, until he says, “you know, the beauty parlours are also closed for too long”. I casually reach to smooth down the fringe that I cut by myself last month, which hasn’t done at all well with the humidity. “Let me know what I can bring next time – did you hear? The lockdown’s been extended”. FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
The Shipping News: Sri Lanka
The staggering array of creatures unloaded from deep sea vessels in darkness and sold before dawn in the Negombo fish markets is a vibrant testament to the fertile waters of the Laccadive Sea and the Indian ocean beyond. Over the last 10 months of living on Sri Lanka's south west coast, trips to its famous fish market have been one of the highlights of my food gathering excursions. Footage: Negombo Fish market, May 21, 2021. A month-long lockdown was just announced. Rice and fish curry (it's never 'fish curry and rice') is Sri Lanka’s ‘meat-and-three-veg’, although vastly more interesting. Regional variations make it reason alone to travel the island – a fiery Jaffna curry and an aromatic Colombo curry are literally an island apart - and that’s just the fish (we’ll talk about the island's 400 strains of rice another time). Seafood makes its way into everything from puff-pastried ‘short eats’ to the salty tang of a pineapple curry, and unidentifiable parts are battered and deep friend into spicy beer snacks. Not sure what these are? Answer: at the end of this article. The livelihoods of more than a million workers throughout the island depend on fishing. Nowhere is the industry more vital to a community than here in Negombo, the hub of Sri Lanka’s premium deep sea, coastal fishing and lagoon crab industry, which together make up 2% of the economy. Negombo Fish Market: 21 May , 2021 But set alight 86 containers filled with 25 metric tonnes of nitric acid, 78 tonnes of plastic 'nurdle' pellets - the 'starter material' for all kinds of plastic products - all fuelled by 300 tonnes of oil, and the irony of a ship burning uncontrollably for two weeks at sea is not lost on anyone who’s been watching the horizon here in since May 22. ABOVE: Negombo fish market, May 21 - the eve of a still-ongoing lockdown BELOW: June 4 - with Saranga, my neighbour and tuktuk driver When the 186 metre container vessel MV X-Press Pearl, only 4 months old and registered in Singapore, left the Indian port of Hazira on the 15th May, it appears that the crew were already aware of a container on board leaking nitric oxide since the 11th May when it departed from a stop in Hamad, Qatar, having originated from the UAE just the day before. Map:The Washington Post, 15 June Attempts to off-load the leaky container in Qatar, and then India, were denied, with both Port Authorities saying that “there were no specialist facilities or expertise immediately available to deal with the leaking acid,” according to the managing company, X-Press Feeders. On May 20, as the vessel awaited entry into Colombo Port, the crew noticed smoke emanating from the cargo hold. The following day, flames were visible on deck and on the 22nd May an explosion prompted Sri Lankan authorities to respond with on-board fire-fighting and tugs. Image: Getty Images/ Sri Lanka Navy. Sri Lankan navy tugs dousing the flames on board the MS-V Pearl. Why the Sri Lankan Government stepped in with an invitation when no other Indian Ocean nation dared to, is the subject of vitriolic controversy with ‘corruption and incompetence’ twinned as almost systemic causes for a country “owned by China” and $70 billion in debt. (Australian readers take note – the port of Colombo and its glittering portside development is leased to China for 99 years : Sri Lanka OKs commission to oversee Chinese-built port city - Times of India (indiatimes.com) A second explosion rocked the vessel on the 25th May, prompting the evacuation of its 25 crew, with the captain, a Russian national, as well as the Chief Engineer and Assistant Supervisor, taken into police custody, as were locals trawling the beaches for useful flotsam from the 45 containers that fell into the sea. Image: Al Jazeera, May 26, 2021 Meanwhile, some 6400 personnel dispatched from the navies and armies of India and Sri Lanka shovelled plastic granules and heat-mangled fibreglass into 1000s of plastic sacks. “ ... not that we’ll ever get any recognition, let alone thanks”, adds an Indian commentator online. The race against time was desperate. The SW monsoon, which starts in June is expected to deliver heavier than average rainfall, prompting the Marine Environment Protection Authority, on 28 May, to warn us that ‘vigilance’ is required as the possibility of nitrogen oxide, which was emitting into the atmosphere, when mixed with water particles, could ‘pour down as acid rain’. My neighbours covered their bicycles and tuk tuks with sheets and plastic as the pre-monsoon deluge swamped streets. Plans to tow the vessel to deeper waters on June 2 were quickly scuttled, while stormy seas hampered efforts by the SMIT Salvage Company to remove containers and pump remaining fuel from the 1441 containers teetering upon on the boat whose aft portion finally sank to the seabed at 21m depth, with the front section settling ever downwards. Image: Towing the ship off the Colombo Harbour, June 2. Sri Lanka Air forces/ Reuter/ Washington Post And all this during a particularly strenuous lockdown and the fatally heavy flash floods in the north ruined crops of root vegetables and leafy greens, causing local prices to rise sharply. Fishing was immediately forbidden along an 80 km stretch of coast between Negombo and Panadura. Today, a month later, the port remains quiet, the fish market, silent, a place for dogs and the homeless to loiter. Seafood sales have plummeted with fear of contamination. Thousands of fisherfolk whose incomes are curtailed, now have their main food source off-limits. Image(A.K. 4 June): Negombo fish market Movement until June 21 was highly restricted. Security, tight and brisk. Transit between the market town of Negombo and Thalahena, where I live, on the narrow finger of land that separates the vast lagoon from the sea, allowed only with a good reason. Image (A.K.) Police round up loiterers. On the 4th June, with a ‘medical pass’ arranged by my inspired tuk tuk driver, we were able to get as far as the Negombo Bridge to visit the port and beaches. footage (A.K.): Negombo Bridge between Thalahena & Negombo over mouth of inlet June 4 “Who do you work for?” called out the foreigner from the other side of the bridge, as I took photos from inside my three-wheeler. He must have been talking to me, there was absolutely no one else not in a uniform around. (His question prompted me to write this story). A British marine ecologist, he was part of an official group inspecting the Negombo -Thalahena bridge, now hung with weighted tarpaulins attempting to protect the inlet’s precious crab-farming grounds from the influx of debris. Image (A.K): Sri Lankan Marine Environmental Protection Authority with British consultants, at the bridge over the inlet to Negombo Lagoon, 4 June "What's the plan for the of plastic sacks already collected?" I asked the Sri Lankan Marine EPA inspector. "Storage or recycle", he said, without optimism, “and there will be more, we have extended the clean-up further south, to Hikkaduwa”. “And how much is there so far?” I asked. “Off the record?, 45 containers each containing 20 metric tonnes”. On the record, it was reported 18 days later, that as of May 26, 42,000 bags of debris were collected from 138 beaches, and as of June 10, the MEPA said it had collected 1,075 tonnes of waste. On the day that the recorder box was recovered from the vessel, 6th June, I took my dinghy to the southern end of the lagoon, about an hour’s trip one way from home, along mangrove-fringed shores. Footage (A.K.): Southern end of Arie Lagoon 6 June Very little coastal development disturbs the bird habitat and marine breeding grounds that keep this water body healthy and fertile. Indeed, the waters looked clean and free of both flotsam and jetsam. I didn’t see a single plastic sphere bobbing along let alone drifts of them piled up. The water looked pristine as a fisherman punted his skiff along gathering nets. Ten days later, I checked the eastern perimeter, same story. Image (A.K.): 16 June, Arie Lagoon, So far, it looks like the emergency efforts implemented to protect the lagoon when the ship started sinking are successful, a hopeful note for the Sri Lankan Marine Protection Authority who have prepared booms, dispersants and skimmers for when the Pearl finally breaks in two and sinks to the seabed, possibly sending - at this stage, unknown - quantities of oil into the sea. Whilst the Sri Lankan Government is seeking $40 million in damages to cover the interim costs, officials here are investigating and working to mitigate further potential environmental damage. The fish markets meanwhile, remain a sleepy refuge. Image (A.K.): Negombo fish market, June 4 Managing perceptions is exercising official attention. The Washington Post reported on the 14th June that an oily-appearing substance appeared to be emanating from the region of the ship, showing graphic examples of asphyxiated fish washed up on seashores, their gills clogged with nurdles. The next day, the publication found itself having to offer a correction: “The initial version of the article did not give sufficient attention to the divergent views of scientists about the extent of the damage some chemicals may cause. The article has been corrected to include other view “ Meanwhile, the incontrovertible evidence of some 100 sea turtles washed ashore in the area shows "specific parts of their carapace have burns and erosion signs", says Thushan Kapurusinghe of the Turtle Conservation Project, who blamed the fire and chemicals the ship carried for killing the turtles. Image: Associated Press, 20 June However, while Anil Jasinghe, Secretary of the Environment Ministry, said "Provisionally, we can say that these deaths were caused by two methods—one is due to burns from the heat and secondly due to chemicals. These are obvious," he refrained from giving an exact cause, saying "post-mortem analysis are still being conducted." (Washington Post) Keen to avoid any whiff of partiality, The Sri Lankan Government is testing the animals in five different laboratories. The sea off Sri Lanka and its coastline is home to five species of turtles that regularly come to lay eggs. March to June is the peak season for turtle arrivals. It’s thought that the damage to the turtle population could extend beyond the sea, with those that survive to come ashore and lay their eggs in the famous golden sands of Sri Lanka's southern beaches finding that the temperature of the incubating sand has risen due to the inundation of heat-retaining nurdles. The plastic spill remains overwhelming and unprecedented. It’s predicted that the pellets will continue to disperse, arriving in Indonesia in about 60 days, before reversing course during monsoon season later in the year to reach India, Sri Lanka again, the Maldives and perhaps Somalia, ending up in Cocos-Keeling Island and Christmas Island in one to two years. The UN reported on the 20th June that the disaster has caused ‘significant damage to the planet’. From my verandah, the effects of the disaster are obvious. My neighbours, all of them sea fishermen, have time on their hands. Taking their boats out seems more of a pastime than an employment. Roadside vendors offer small piles of tiny lagoon fish, but the markets remain closed. I asked Salitha if he knew of the $40 million compensation being sought. He rolled his eyes. “Someone will be getting rich, he laughed mirthlessly. ... so, any guesses? Me: "why would you eat that?" Saranga, tuk tuk driver: "I dont know. Some people do." And 'that' ? It's an octopus' mouth. References: Sri Lanka ship fire caused ‘significant damage to planet’ | Sri Lanka News | Al Jazeera Heavy rain, floods kill at least 17 in Sri Lanka | Reuters Fire aboard cargo ship has left Sri Lanka’s ecosystem hanging in the balance - Washington Post Black box recovered from fire-stricken ship sinking off Sri Lanka | Sri Lanka News | Al Jazeera Turtle carcasses wash ashore in Sri Lanka after ship fire - The Washington Post Follow: Facebook Instagram
Painting Retreat with Jenni Doherty in Bali
Jenni Doherty, one of Western Australia's most sought-after artists recently taught a 6-day Art and Yoga Retreat with Anna Kwiecinska at Villa Nilaya in beautiful East Bali. Here's how it happened: Try to picture four ladies walking through the door fresh from a detox retreat in the mountains - brimming with health and energy ? Um, not really … exhausted, funny tummies and a bit listless, the rigours of Paradise barely concealed. So, together with two returning retreatants, we were off to a leisurely start on Day1 with a group painting project which brought us into the garden. Collecting shapes, and thinking about design from the first moment as we worked with a limited palette of indigo, raw sienna and beige. Our first yoga session is another important moment in bringing a group into focus. Angelina has joined us this year for all 3 retreats (and those who have experienced her yoga will be glad to know she's returning next year), and brings a calming quality to our twice-daily time 'on the mat' (30 minutes warm up and a short shavasana - deep rest - at 9 am to set us up for the day, and then a full 90-minute practice at 5 pm, leading us into dinner and an early, restful night. Depending on our energy at the end of each day, this practice can be more or less dynamic, and you wont be surprised to learn that many of our afternoon sessions consisted of what's called ' restorative postures' .. that is blankets, blocks and bolsters supporting our limbs in 5-10 minute poses, where gravity does the rest, and one just sinks into deep rest. The message here is - whatever suits the day is what happens - there's no pre-determined yoga program or driven teacher to push you beyond limits. if deep rest is what's called for, then deep rest is what we do. Slowly but surely, everyone returned to full energy by the middle of the week. Jenni lead us on a focussed journey to create a many-layered 80 x 80 cm canvas, where each layer involved design and problem-solving. As a learning process it's been invaluable for me to see the difference that a session spent just on creating a palette from 3 chosen colours and two neutrals has on the finished painting. For all of us a revelation to realise that an endless array of colours can be made and that there's often more than one way to create the same tone - valuable lessons. Jenni's own paintings, incredibly beautiful works of art that often stand taller than the artist herself, often involve more than 20 layers of paint, often beginning with a mixed media base, as we did using moulding paste to create decorative textures into which we later worked with colour. Every artist has a way of attacking the glaring white void of a fresh canvas, and we've tried many here over the years. Artists who've come to teach in bali on Creative Living Retreats include Nadine Bastow, Becky Blair and Cate Edwards. Jenni's technique was a new weapon in the artist arsenal and we look forward to expanding on this theme next year when Jenni presents a mixed media on canvas retreat and a 2-day mixed media on paper works. Sparkling sunshine beckoned us on a boating trip with a glorious morning basking on a white sandy beach with gentle surf for gorgeous swimming. Doesn't boating always give one an appetite? Ketut's pandanus palm pancakes filled with gingered palm syrup and freshly grated coconut and hot Bali coffee to the rescue. Time for kite-flying and clothes shopping in tiny beach side boutiques before the 30 minute boat trip home to lunch and an afternoon of painting. Our week included a hands-on cooking lesson with executive chef Pak Dewa Ardika, and a night on the town for some live jazz and divine cuisine to celebrate an entrancing exhibition night. Energised, rested and revived, the art said it all - glowing canvases full of vibrant colour, dynamic design and tantalising texture, and 6 amazing women who'd arrived exhausted, worked hard and departed for home in all their creative glory. Thank you for reading, I hope you enjoyed the story. More East Bali advetures The Gorgeous GadaboutsTextile Retreat with ROBERTA LEARY Taking Time, Making Space painting retreat with CATE EDWARDS East Bali's Spiritual Landscapes FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
East Bali's Spiritual Landscape
Known as 'The island of the Gods', Balinese harness the power of Mother Earth to appease the Gods. I journey to the volcanic heights to take a purification ceremony in sacred springs. Early morning meditation from my favourite panoramic viewpoint high above the village of Manggis, with the port of Padang Bai to the right and the rice fields of my village of Mendira directly below on the coast (photo: Glen Bosman) Shortcut : find out about taking this tour yourself Buying a 'fridge isn't often a moment of existential reverie, but after all the fun of negotiating a price in Bali's downtown commercial district of Denpasar, the can-do alacrity of sealing the sale with free delivery came to a sudden halt last week when I gave my address: "Villa Nilaya, Mendira Village, near Candi Dasa, thank you" . "Where's that ?" "Karanagsem", meaning the region that marks the border of East and West Bali. "Ohhhh", slow intake of breath and widening of eyes, "Karanga-a-a-sem. Please wait Ibu, I must ask the boss". This inevitably results in another negotiation, and the peeling off of more red ones (those hundred rupiah notes, where ten make a million, and might buy you half a manicure). For all its costs (and yes a fridge, along with many other commodities needs replacing with annoying regularity, the kitchen being only 40 metres away from the seafront), it's an expense I bear with equanimity. Why? Because for now at least, it's still a small world away from sports bars, braids and Bintang T-shirts of the west coast tourist centres, and affords one an increasingly rare chance of experiencing at close range the serene and stunning beauty of one of the worlds most famous islands. Now only 90 minutes' drive from the airport (it used to be a 3 hour journey and meant one really had to want to be here), your approach into East Bali is marked by the auspicious buildings of Goa Lawah - the bat temple - marking the place where the mountains come closest to the sea. In a culture where topography defines a spiritual compass, the conjunction of mountains (represented by the Hindu god Brahma) and sea (represented by Vishnu), is a potent location and your journey will often be enlivened (and perhaps delayed), by Bali's famously beautiful cremation ceremonies as snaking processions of mourners, who, quite rightly, will not be hurried by any form of emergency , carry the ashes aloft before consigning them to the sea amidst clouds of fragrant incense. Life visibly slows down here as untidy shacks and jungley parts replace the urban development which is rapidly encroaching upon the food-producing fields closer to the cities and tourists hotspots, where villa complexes are rising like mews in the middle of watery padi fields. Life in the slow lane and time to watch rice grow (photo: Glen Bosman) You're already in a part of Bali that many city dwellers and the majority of tourists don't bother to visit, but keep going - it gets better. I've been exploring this region of Bali for twenty years, and it's taken all that time to discover, with help of my most trusted guide, a region and practice that has truly taken my breath away… the lava fields of Mt Agung and the holy springs of Lake Batur. Driving west from Villa Nilaya on the coast and taking a hard turn right just before the Amankila resort to ascend the tightly wound and darkly-forested road towards the ridge above Manggis, on enters another Bali. The early morning market of Selak village is worth timing your journey to visit - with everything from plastic bucket traders to tight-lipped weighers of gold behind high glass counters, this is a bustling microcosm of Bali village life in a moderately prosperous area where rice farming and cow rearing are augmented by a vast array of vegetables agriculture. It's also a great opportunity to sample freshly-made street food or pick up nibbles for the 40-minute drive to the volcano where you'll stop for breakfast. Mt Agung peaks behind the crater which is Lake Batur, with its tilapia fish farms and across the water at the far end of the lake, is the remote and rarely-visited - and hard-to-get-to Bali Aga village of Trugnan (photo: Anna Kwiecinska) My specially-arranged 'Purification and Meditation' experience is with the man whom the Balinese authorities call when trekkers get stranded in the island's wilderness. 'A 'mountain man' whose grandmothers were both traditional healers, he is growing towards his responsibilities as a village elder, a wise man from whom others can seek advice on many matters, including spiritual ones, for although he is not a priest, he is permitted to conduct certain spiritual ceremonies. He's brought with him his special priestly-clothing, white sarong and shirt, yellow hip sash, and of course the distinctive headwear which all men must wear to be properly dressed in Bali. Wrapped in a traditional sarong, I make my way along a series of water spouts representing the 11 holy springs issuing forth their Earth-warmed water into Lake Batur at the foot of Mt Agung, Bali's largest volcano.(photo:Glen Bosman) For me, he's brought a fresh sarong which I change into for the purification ceremony, whilst he sets up all of the ritual's necessary elements: flowers of 5 colours to represent the cardinal directions occupied by triumvirate of Hindu gods - Brahma Vishnu and Shiva - plus the celestial and earthly coordinates above and below where we sit. For my purification ceremony we have fresh petals in woven palm leaf baskets - 'cana' (pronounced 'chana' , incense, a receptacle for the holy spring water and the bundled palm leaf sticks with which it is sprinkled and white rice, all laid out on fresh white cloth. The ceremony begins as we sit cross-legged opposite one another outside of the Holy Springs enclosure by Lake Batur. It's a quiet weekday morning, there's no traffic noise, only the quiet chug of an outboard motor taking its boat owner to check on the floating enclosures where tilapia are bred. The lake is silent, barely a lapping sound, and a small boy distractedly flings a fishing line in from the reedy shores. We begin as the pleasantly monotonous chanting of Sanskrit fills the air and in between verses I'm instructed to pick certain petals, hold them between my fingers above my head in a position of prayer and then place them sequentially behind both ears and then the crown of my head. Each placement is followed by a sprinkling of now-blessed holy spring water and the final blessing, one of abundance and prosperity, is the placement of soaked rice grains pressed upon my forehead. The blessing has taken 15 minutes or so and although not a word is understood, I've given myself over to the experience with an open mind and heart, and love the reverential quality that now hangs in the air around us. 11 water spouts, 11 holy springs - I move through the warm water with a sprig of incense, placing it to the left of each spring's deity before making my own prayers - the entire process takes me 30 minutes (Photo:Glen Bosman) Thus sanctified, we now move into the Holy Springs enclosure for the purification ceremony. It is here that the local villages of Kintamani region will come to make their major blessing festivals, and this space will resound with gamelan orchestras, gongs, drums, chanting and gaiety, but today, within the high stone walls, we are alone on a perfect day and I'm glad … the spring waters gushing forth are so deliciously warm that I want to spend as long in here as possible, just floating and soaking up these non-sulphurous, sweet-tasting waters. Beginning at the far end, the luxuriance of this water is distracting - this might be the ultimate spa experience in Bali! I place a stick of burning incense to the left of the first water spout representing a natural deity, and whilst my priestly guide intones his verses in Sanskrit, I raise my arms to catch the water and then, in an age-old gesture of reverence, raise my hand above my head, as if to bring upon myself the blessings which are being bestowed by the gods through Nature via the holy verses. Beneath the sun, immersed in soft, warm water with a towering volcano behind me and ancient stone carvings before me, I've become a willing participant in this ceremony and don't want to lose one single opportunity to call to mind … well, never you mind … suffice to say that the repetition of this blessing 11 times as I moved through the waters to stand before each spout - a different spring and deity - was gently galvanising, the words I spoke to myself that morning remaining with me. I'm neither religious or especially spiritual, but I'm stronglydrawn to ritual, and on Bali, the Island of the Gods, where trees and rocks are as revered as statues and temples, the elemental power beneath the very ground that we walk on seems an appropriate place to direct one's attention as any. Ever been inside a lava tube? Here we set up for the mediation practice withing the stoney-quiet space of a a pitch black lave tube on the western side of Mt AGung. (Photo: Anna Kwiecinska) Reluctantly I had to eventually to leave this glorious pond of pleasure, dry and set forth to the next destination … a lave tube that runs deep into the western flank of Mt Agung (yes, the one that rumbles and upsets airports). Not surprisingly, a small temple sits inside the entrance, and after a Jules Verne moment of walking with flashlight into the utter darkness and stillness of the tunnel, I opted to do our meditation by the temple, rather than as was offered, inside the tube with the lights off. (if you do it, please tell me how it was!). The temple was already adorned with ceremonial umbrellas of white and yellow satin, and wrapped in the distinctive black and white chequered cloth that signifies the good and the bad, the full moon and the dark moon, the yin and yang of life, and strewn about were the remains of recent offerings - which somehow made me feel better. Sitting for 30 minutes cross-legged on pointy lava outcroppings will not be to everyone's taste, and I guess there's an opportunity to make this part a little briefer, but unlikely to return, I'm here to give it my all … after all, it was to this culmination that the purification ceremonies were leading .... and I love the chanting. The last time I came here, some 5 years ago, I travelled with my same guide to the Bali Aga village of Trugnyan, a famously remote, if not fiercely unwelcoming community who live on the far side of the lake, practicing their own versions of Bali's pre-Hindu culture, including, uniquely, that of not burning their dead, leaving them instead, wrapped in cloth beneath a special tree which is said to purify the air (and indeed that seemed to be the case when I witnessed such a ceremony). Today, visiting is not advised as frequent rockfalls make the place extremely unsafe - and one can't help feeling that the Trugnyans probably prefer it that way. Bali Aga refers to three villages who are distinct from not only one another, but from the rest of Bali, in their spiritual practices. So as you make your way back downhill, it's worth making time to visit Tengenan, which lies snuggled into a secret valley just behind Villa Nilaya. Thank you for reading! I hope you enjoyed the story. You can leave me a comment below - I'd love to hear from you - and I'll be sure to get back to you. More from beautiful East Bali Textiles Adventures in Bali 2022 Art, Writing and Yoga Retreats at Villa Nilaya, Bali Creative Living Art and Yoga retreat in Bali with CATE EDWARDS Creative Living art and Yoga retreat with JENNI DOHERTY FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
Sri Lanka in Lockdown - a tale of serendipity
Serendipity : a word coined by Horace Walpole in 1754, describing the heroes of a Persian tale who were 'always making discoveries, by accident or sagacity, of things they were not in quest of'. Hundreds of year earlier, Arab traders, plying the island we know as 'Sri Lanka' for rubies and cinnamon, called it 'Serendib'. At the time of writing, May 3, it’s now 44 days since Sri Lanka imposed a strictly-enforced COVID curfew, and I’m worried that when it eventually comes to an end I’ll have, in a classic case of Stockholm Syndrome, fallen in love with my captor. Just to be clear, though, I haven’t found myself taken prisoner by the Sri Lankan constabulary or been body snatched by fisher folk. above: It's the First Full Moon in May today (7th May), and my street is decorated for Vesak Poya - 3 days celebrating the Birth, Enlightenment and final passing of the Buddha Arriving in late February after working in India since December, I’d timed my week’s break to renew my Indian visa with an invitation from friends for a long weekend by the beach. I’d be back in Jaipur before the end of the month. Easy Deviation from Plan #1: The Road to Colombo Now let me just say that I adore India. As a peak travel experience, the Sub-Continent set my benchmark years ago. It is the definition of exotic. A land of everything. And everything to excess. In India, more is more. But put me in a swift AC taxi as I exit from Sri Lankas’ friendly little airport, whizz me along the smoothest road I’ve experienced for months, and suddenly, I’m on holiday, and somewhere between lowering the window to feel that moist night air brush my skin and alighting into Colombo’s cultural heart, I’ve decided that I deserve a fortnight here. At the invitation of Sri Lanka’s luxury hotel company, Jetwing, I spend the weekend discovering the East Coast. Decimated during the 2004 tsunami, the region has languished in the island's tourism stakes, although surfers well know Arugam Bay’s famous right-hand break and its cruisey bamboo beach shacks, but our journey reveals unexpected riches... Buddhist ruins, more than 2000 years old, sprawling amidst jungle enclosures along quiet, barely sign-posted roads; a colonial homestead in low-lying tea hills offering rustic fare transformed into haute cuisine, and the rarely-visited Kumana National Park, which I found so much more interesting that its nearby, and more famous rival, Yala. above: ornate ablutions within a queen's bathing precinct. Despite Sri Lanka's 2500 hundred years of written history, the details of this ruin remains obscure and conjectural. The pearl in our oyster of weekend indulgence is ‘Jetwing Surf’, a lazy haven of sea-side living, its pavilions and bungalows inspired by conch-shells and shaped in natural materials. Just being amongst this architecture is an adventure, the dazzling cuisine a bonus. Often inspired, and sometimes designed by Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa - who gave the world 'Tropical Modernism' - Jetwing’s hotels are a collection of 40 unique properties. As the founding family who still manage the business are dedicated art lovers - it’s how we met 3 years ago - I’m thrilled to next be accompanying them ‘up station’ as they review their recently-opened 'Kandy Gallery', a boutique haven by the riverside, just 20 minutes from Kandy's bustling centre.. Home to Sri Lanka’s last kingdom before it succumbed to British rule in 1815, Kandy’s gilded pre-eminence as the jewel in the island’s cultural crown remains undisputed. For Victorian tea planters and the generations of colonialists who followed them, the neat green hills are one of many elevated respites from impossible coastal heat, but for Sri Lankans, Kandy is the very heart of the nation’s identity, for here resides the nation’s most venerated religious relic: the Buddha’s tooth. In kingly times it was said that whosoever held this tooth, held power. Cool tea slopes and musty temples prove irresistible, and for my second week I head to a high altitude guesthouse in the pukka Richmond Hills, all Corinthian columns and sweeping staircases - a colonial setting just begging for a Barbara Cartland novel throbbing with tropical ardour. Above: Not recommended for luggers of heavy luggage … Richmond House In Kandy - the only way is up Deviation from Plan #2 : India Locks Down Meanwhile, India’s first corona cases emerge in Shekawati, just 5 hours north of Jaipur, and friends there advise me to postpone my return - the spectre of a pandemic running rife in the Pink City too horrifying to imagine. So I engage a 3-wheeler tuk tuk driver for the week ahead (far more economical than day-by-day, and so much less argey bargey), and we contentedly trundle up and down the Kandyan hills, from one sacred site to another, slipping rupees to well-fed monks whose hands slyly extend from saffron robes before they’ll produce a key to open ancient cave temples painted in lolly colours and smelling of candle wax. By mid-March, Sri Lanka’s first COVID patient is successfully returned to China. My 30-day visa will soon expire so I take the glorious Blue Train to Colombo, only to find everything closed, as ad hoc ‘public holidays’ are declared in an effort to keep the population off the streets while the government considers its next move. above: Confusion plus on the platform of Kandy railway station … could I be forgiven for thinking that the famous Blue Train with its AC observation saloon would actually be... blue ? March in Colombo is enervating. Stepping from my cool bedroom into the hallway of a lovely home designed by Geoffrey Bawa acolytes, the morning heat reaches out and wraps itself around my bare arms and legs like a panting animal breathing on my skin. Moist and threatening, the heat has a presence. It feels very alive. It takes real determination to not merely slump after breakfast and await the possibility of an afternoon sea breeze. However, relieved to have my visa extended by a month, I begin to get my bearings in C5, Colombo’s gentrified suburb of large homes behind high walls. Now looking forward to the weeks ahead, dawn walks beneath the beautiful spreading foliage of Independence Square, coffee here, juice there … I’m secretly pleased for this opportunity to feel at home in another place in the world. Deviation from Plan #3: Sri Lanka Locks Down Now, just sometimes in life, synchronicity takes on a dimension so astounding, that truly, there ought to be another name for it. My phone lights up with a message “Are you ok? I can be there in 2 hours” Which part of this story is missing? Ah yes, the part where I return from my morning walk to discover my host in a state of panic, alarmed that the government of Sri Lanka has just announced a nation-wide curfew from 4 pm today … until further notice. In hindsight, I realise that whilst the implications were only dawning on me, my host, who had stalwartly remained in Colombo throughout the years of civil war, knew well that having another mouth to feed through prolonged curfew was a serious liability. I had to leave. And sure enough, by the time my bags are packed, the garage door rises on a tall, lean bloke in wrap-around sunglasses getting out of a ute. A Vision Splendid! Instantaneously cossetted by a blanket of safety I didn’t realise I missed, I silently thank Facebook for the one-in-whatever chance that a lovely woman who had several years ago joined one of my Bali art and yoga retreats, happened to notice that I was in Sri Lanka and notified her husband there that I might need a hand. Deviation from Plan #4 : Curfew in Kalutara Exactly 43 km south of Colombo is North Kalutara. The bookends of my life have started, perhaps, to assemble with my arrival here. A lifetime ago I arrived on the train, which I now hear rush past every other day – the track is just 50 meters from the house where I stay. In the other direction, then, as now, groves of beachfront coconut palms strung with hammocks lean seawards, but the beach shacks are replaced by resorts nervously pampering pale Russians and sunburnt Brits in the last few days before Sri Lanka’s only airport closes. Back then I’d arrived with a copy of John Irving’s The World According to Garp. Now I’m grateful for a collection of random paperbacks well-thumbed by the Aussie miners who’ve set up a base here for an operation they’re anxious to get underway. The manager departed not long after bringing me here, leaving their three houses in my care for the last 6 weeks. The curfew is mooted to end next week, after Vesak Poya, normally a huge celebration heralded by the May full moon to mark the birthday, enlightenment and final passing of the Buddha, but this year, a quiet suburban affair - like so many birthdays at home during COVID. ‘Adventures’ are not something one usually associates with being confined to home, but I have to confess that I’m already wondering if I really have to step outside the gate so soon. Something very special has evolved here since March 20. I’m incredibly grateful not only for a home, but a gently, distant sense of community which is still evolving here and marks for me, a very personal experience of Serendipity, that "chance occurance and development of events in a happy or beneficial way''. I hope you enjoyed the story - and you can leave me a comment - just keep scrolling down a bit - and I'll be sure to get back to you. If you would like to receive my travel storis and postcards staright into your inbox, please consider subscribing to my occasional newsletters. More Sri Lanka stories The Galle Literary Festival My Ayurvedic Retreat in Sri Lanka FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
Remembering Poppy Day in King's Park
Dedicated to Zbigniew Tadeuscz Sixtus Jerzy Grabiecz Kwiecinski AO June 2, 1922 - July 16, 1999 My Dad didn't talk much about the war. Constant hunger, 'secret missions' in Lvov, his mother dying from a brain haemorrhage just days after witnessing the shooting of Jewish neighbours on the street below her window in Crakow ... these few images have expanded in my imagination to fill the many gaps that will probably always remain about Dad's last years in Poland during the Second World War. There were few photographs. A U.S. Army fork - regulation issue to those liberated from prison camps in 1945 - rattled around in our cutlery drawer, his army beret in a cabinet, and, stuffed like a guilty secret into the back of his wardrobe, an enormously heavy leather greatcoat liberated from its owner on 'the other side'. These were the only three objects of 'Dad's past'. A background of which nothing remained, not even relatives. Always grateful that he was the father of two daughters, rather than sons, "because you girls will never have to go to war", he was, nevertheless, an old-world disciplinarian where "children and fish have no voices". Marched down the hall to bed - "hup two, three, four" - my sister and I were often lulled to sleep by Dad deeply crooning Polish guerilla songs, or that wartime classic Lili Marleen in German, which he spoke perfectly. If Mum slept in too late on school mornings, I was usually directed to rouse her into action with a hand-trumpeted version of Reverie, and slothful behavior was denounced with "wakey wakey, your country needs you!" So it's little wonder that my enrolment into the Girl Guides couldn't happen early enough. "I look at it now and realise what a tiny little thing you were", says Mum, as she holds up the pleated cotton frock that was my first Brownie uniform. "You seemed like such a big girl". There was usually a bit of scuffle to get to Brownie's on time every Saturday afternoon. Having gone to speech and piano lessons in the morning with Mum, I'd sometimes then accompany Dad to the 'European butcher' to buy Polski ogorki, smelly cheeses, wizened sausages and dark, dense bread. Weekend brunches were olfactory treats cut short by my 2pm pack meeting. Mum, once again taxi'd me to and fro, but not before Dad checked my uniform. Tie badge polished, shiny belt, he'd invariably, however, re-arrange my beret. With the spic and span deftness of a sergeant major, the part I least liked about my uniform was pulled from its precarious placement on the back of my head to a regulation inch above my eyes, with a precise tug to the right for good measure. Little soldier prepared for action. Captain Harms discharged her duties as Brown Owl with a broad brogue. While it's true that I was often more fascinated by the dark hairs squashed beneath her stockings than mastering a repertoire of knots, I took to the challenges of collecting badges with zeal. The Girl Guides Handbook was a wealth of information. Along with comportment and thrillingly grown-up advice about personal hygiene, lay a catalogue of endeavours, the mastery of which resulted in badges to sew on our sleeves. Over my last three years at primary school Captain Harms handed out these cloth awards for everything from 'camp tenderfoot' to 'singing', and we celebrated with cordial and cake baked by her snowy haired mother who came to every meeting. Meanwhile, Dad spent many Saturday afternoons at home, listening to the football whilst repainting the metal plaques whose words in silvered relief commemorate Western Australian soldiers killed or missing in action during the First World War. Each plaque was staked at the foot of a towering eucalyptus tree lining the miles of 'Honour Avenues' in the magnificent King's Park on Mount Eliza in Perth. Although Dad would eventually preside over the RSL (Returned Services League) Committee in the Highgate Sub-Branch managing these Honour Avenues, this story happens well before that. For him, maintaining these poignant records bearing witness to the thousands of men who set sail to fight for a far-away King, was, I know, his way of offering gratitude to the country which welcomed him in 1949. However, the plaques needed repainting with a frequency that, even as a labour of love galvanised by civic duty, became a burden on ageing men. Dad's helpers were not getting any younger and nor were their knees. His busy-bees were harder to fill and more and more plaques were brought home to fix alone. When I joined in to paint the letters silver after he'd finished cleaning them with a wire brush and coating them in glossy black enamel, it was quickly apparent that small, nimbler fingers could do this job easily. And so it was, after considerable consultation, that the Girl Guides Association in Western Australia joined with the RSL to permit the services of Brownies in the maintenance of this public icon, with our time acknowledged in the awarding of the coveted 'Service Badge'. I'm not sure when this unique symbiosis ceased, but eventually Captain Harms retired and I left the Guides. Dad remained incredibly active in the RSL throughout his 50 years of membership, whilst around this time also starting Mensa in Western Australia - but that's another story! Today, the leafy verges of the Honour Avenues are often parking areas and joggers crunch past. Occasionally I notice a flower stuck behind a plaque, but on Remembrance Day, late Spring sunshine brings a flutter of colour to the temporary flags at each tree, an invitation to stop, read and reflect. On those Sunday afternoons my young imagination barely understood the implication of the words Ypres, Somme, Poizieres ... some plaques bearing the names of three or even four brothers, or a father and sons. But today, imagining the dreaded telegram arriving home, I wonder who was left behind to wonder where my father was when peace was declared for a second time, just 27 years after Armistice Day. oOo In Flanders Fields In Flanders Fields the poppies grow
Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place. While in the Sky
The larks still bravely singing, fly
Unheard, amid the guns below.
We are the dead, Short days ago
We lived, felt dawns, saw sunsets glow;
Loved and were loved – but now we lie
In Flanders Field Take up our quarrel with the foe!
To you from falling hands we throw
The torch, Be yours to bear it high!
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep tho’ poppies blow
In Flanders Field. by Lt. Col John McCrae Composed in Ypres on May 3, 1915 and recited by Leonard Cohen in 2015 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKoJvHcMLfc A detailed account of Dad's life is chronicled in his obituary by Ken Bladen, the State President of the RSL, on pg 15 of "The Listening Post' https://www.rslwa.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Vol22-No3-Spring-1999.pdf Marlene Dietrich singing the original version of Lili Marleen. the next international Girl Guides jamboree is in Poland 2021 https://www.girlguideswa.org.au/ The Returned Services League of Western Australia Highgate Sub branch of the RSL in Western Australia King's Park Botanic Garden Thank you for reading. If you would like to receive my travel storis and postcards staright into your inbox, please consider subscribing to my occasional newsletters. FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
Sri Lankan Christmas Cake - Spice Voyager Recipe #2
This richly flavoured fruit cake is flourless and made in two easy parts On Day One you steep the fruit in spices and brandy and five days later you mix in the other ingredients and bake it for an hour and half. Here's what you need to start: 100 grams each of: whole currants whole sultanas 100 grams each of roughly chopped: red glace cherries - try to use real cherries glace ginger - the more syrupy the better raisins cashew nuts, unsalted and unroasted mixed peel - the Sri Lankan version is thickly syrupy candied pumpkin - again a local ingredient, substitute with candied pineapple The fruit will expand by almost 50% during steeping, so choose a large bowl to add all the ingredients together with: 6 tablespoons of brandy the juice of an orange 1 generous tablespoon of mixed spice The Spice Mix 1 large nutmeg without the covering (which can be ground separately for 'mace' but not used in this recipe) 1 8cm length of (Sri Lankan) cinnamon. Where to get true Ceylon Cinnamon? 17 cloves Grind to a fine powder with a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder (There should be a little more than required for the recipe, keep this allspice mix airtight for another recipe. By the way, a teaspoon of ground cinnamon weighs 2.6 g). TIP I made this cake again using Cinnamon Alba, the highest grade of cinnamon available anywhere in the cinnamon market, and the difference in aroma was dramatic. The flavour was richer - more 'cinnamony' - without actually being stronger. I'd recommend using this if possible, but don't put off trying this cake whilst you look for cinnamon alba - it's so delicious it will be gone in no time! Mix all ingredients well, seal tightly with plastic wrap, wrap in a tea towel and leave to steep at room temperature for 5 days. 5 DAYS LATER Here's what you'll need Before you start: pre-heat oven to 150 C butter a 20 cm square cake tin, followed by 5 layers of butcher's paper and finally a layer of buttered greaseproof paper Ingredrients: 100 gms of softened butter 50 gms of castor sugar (the Sri Lankan version calls for 100 gms, but I found this teeth numbingly sweet. Next time I'd even reduce the 50gm to 40 gm) 100 gms of semolina 6 eggs separated 1 teaspoon of bee honey 1 teaspoon of almond essence 1 teaspoon of rose essence 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla essence grated rind of 3 limes Beat the sugar and butter to a creamy consistency and add egg yolks one by one, then add the lime and essences. Beat the egg whites to soft peaks Mix the semolina into the steeped fruit Pour the butter/egg/sugar mix into the fruit and fold through well. Fold in the egg whites at the last moment, being careful not to mix more than necessary Pour into the cake tin, bake in the middle of the oven for 1hr 30 minutes and test with a skewer. Note: I added in a good extra slurp of brandy at this stage, and found that the extra moisture required another 20 minutes in the oven ... the butcher's paper lining ensured that the cake wasn't a bit overcooked. Cool completely before turning onto a rack. I've decorated mine with mangrove flower sepals from the lagoon here, studded with Sri Lankan cloves, and I store in the refrigerator for easier slicing. Well, finally feeling festive, and celebrating with a nip of 'Rosetto', a spiced wine also full of cloves and cinnamon, made by the Rosarian Sisters from the little convent I visited a few weeks ago in Jaffna, at the northern most tip of the island ... but that's another story. Happy baking, Anna WHERE TO GET TRUE CEYLON CINNAMON? I've discovered a company here in Sri Lanka who grows their own spices and exports vacuum-packed products around the world to individuals - lovely people to talk to, easy to communicate with and very responsive - ask for Mr Chandana who started the company and is passionate about spices. There are 4 grades of Sri Lankan Cinnamon - Cinnamon Alba is the costliest and most refined of all, and I've used it in this crab curry. Negombo Coconut Crab Curry - Spice Voyager Recipe #3. Learn more about the fascinating history of Cinnamon The spice that put Sri Lanka on the map And if you love a good Biryani try out this recipe from Jaipur Spice Voyage Recipe #1 for Biryani Lovers You can also find this recipe featured on : eLanka UK | eLanka | Sri Lankan Christmas Cake - eLanka UK Thank you for reading, and I hope you enjoy the results of your cooking. Let me know how you go in the comments below! FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
The Spice That Put Sri Lanka on the Map
How did a small island between the Arabian sea and the Indian Ocean became the epicentre of a European battle for dominion of the costliest spice in the world? There's a spicy recipe at the end, so let me introduce its star ingredient ... WHO AM I? For three centuries the island of Ceylon was the epicentre of a global battle for domination of me, one of the most costly goods on the planet. Prized more highly than gold in the ancient world, I was one of the world's first-traded spices. I was first mentioned by the Greeks in a C.7th BC poem by Sappho; an Apollonian temple bears my name inscribed in a list of gifts, and the Roman emperor Nero, in an ostentatious display of contrition, spent several lifetimes of working men’s wages to scent the fires of his second wife’s funeral pyre with my revered perfume. My acquisition was an enterprise rivalling the labours of Hercules. Men were said to brave swamps ‘at the end of the world’, forge serpent-infested canyons and lure giant birds to gorge on chunks of oxen, only to have their massive nests tumble from insurmountable peaks when they returned to their mountaintop lairs, fat and heavy. What fell to ground was collected and brought to the Red Sea where Arab traders could demand what they wanted for me, a mythic substance essential to embalmers, anointers and preservers of meat. In the C.1st AD Pliny the Elder opined my source as Ethiopia, already a place of legendary mystery, and for another 1100 years Venetian traders, who owned the monopoly on my European trade from the port of Alexandria, did nothing to disavow these gilt-edged fictions - although interestingly, Marco Polo remained quiet on the subject, despite the fact that ‘kwai’, my oriental cousin, had been mentioned in Chinese medicinal texts since 2800 BC. When the Mamluk sultans assumed power in Cairo 1250, and the Ottomans only 49 years later in Constantinople, the Mediterranean seaways were disrupted, and the Arabs’ best-kept secret became even more exorbitant. Having controlled my trade for millennia, and being, at the time, the world’s best cartographers, it's not surprising that it was an Arab geographer, Zakariya al-Qazwini, who first mentioned that I grew on the island known as ‘Serendib’. The year was 1270 and 22 years later this was repeated in a letter by the Archbishop of Peking, Giovanni de Montecorvino, a Franciscan explorer statesman who founded the earliest Catholic missions in India and China. Modern cartographic conventions are reversed in the map above - it's 'upside down' - but the most comprehensive map of its day shows how prominently the island of Ceylon, featured in world knowledge - the tiny teardrop isle is almost half the size of India! But it would be another 200 years before Europeans, now really struggling to meet demand, felt compelled to seek me out for themselves. Disappointing Queen Isabella, sitting up there in Grenada’s Alhambra, both Christopher Columbus and Gonzalo Pizarro failed to find me in the New World, while her greatest rivals, Portugal, who'd been exploring the Arabian sea, finally discovered me in Ceylon around 1518. Wasting no time to control their fragrant quarry, the Portuguese conquered Ceylon's coastal kingdom of Kotto, enslaving the population who would enrich Portugal over the next century. Meanwhile, Ferdinand Magellan continued Spain's search, his efforts somewhat rewarded with a sturdy relative of mine in the Philippines. But it was the teardrop isle between the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean that commanded the great trading empires’ attention. "The shores of the island are full of it," a Dutch captain reported, "and it is the best in all the Orient. When one is downwind of the island, one can still smell it eight leagues out to sea." Only 20 years after establishing their own trading post in 1638 and quickly taking control of Portugal's ‘manufactories’ in 1640, the Dutch, allied with the central Ceylonese kingdom of Kandy, overthrew the Portuguese in 1658. However, if the Kandyans thought they’d just scored a victory, they were very mistaken. The Dutch defeated the Portuguese but held the kingdom in their debt for their military services, so once again Ceylon was occupied by European traders – this time for 150 years. The Kandyan kingdom, solitary and isolated in the mountainous centre of the island and surrounded by opportunistic colonists, cleverly held onto provincial power, and learning from bitter experience, used it to parry with the Dutch government for protection from foreign invasion in return for land rights. I became the jewel in the Dutch East India’s crown, their most lucrative export. They systematised the harvesting of these wild perennials of the laurel family that flourished between upcountry and coast, eventually beginning cultivation, including 289 acres in 1789, just 3 km south east of Colombo. But time was running out for my luxury status; by the early 1800s despite my unique qualities, other species were being exported from China and SE Asia, and when Britain wrested control of Ceylon - Kandyan kingdom and all - in 1796, they already had massive plantations in Kerala on India’s SW coast, and besides, tea and rubber were the now the world’s products du jour. … and those 289 hectares near to Colombo? They became the city’s elite residential precinct, a by-word for privilege and cosmopolitan style. Cinnamon Gardens. More likely than not, that sprinkle of aromatic powder on your cappuccino is the grounds of the thick curls of bark peeled from the felled trees of Cinnamomom cassia, native to China, now widely cultivated in Vietnam and Indonesia where it's known as ‘Kayu manis’, sweet wood. Much cheaper and more widely available, its stronger aroma is matched by a coarser texture when ground, darker colour and a spicier flavour– it bears only passing resemblance to Cinnamomum verum, ‘true Cinnamon’, or ‘Ceylon Cinnamon' which originated in Sri Lanka, and today's world production is still produced mainly on the island, with the other 10% from Seychelles and Madagascar. Cinnamomum verum and Cinnamomum cassia are totally different spices. The major difference is the coumarin content of each spice. C. verum contains ultra-low coumarin content compared to cassia and its varieties: True Cinnamon (~0.004% coumarin) and Cassia (~ 5% of coumarin). Why is this important ? In 2006, Germany’s Federal Institute for Risk Assessment warned against regular usage of cassia, due to its higher coumarin content, which is linked to kidney and liver health, whereas Ceylon Cinnamon has many purported health benefits, and a surprising amount of nutrition So as you shop for the ingredients for this Sri Lankan Christmas cake, it's an opportunity to watch out for the distinctive quills of Sri Lankan Cinnamon, and very much worth the effort to find the real thing. Chinese Cinnamon is a single, thick, curled layer of reddish bark, but notice how in cross-section Ceylon cinnamon quills are made of many layers of crumbly, paper-thin bark in about 8 cm lengths, rolled into cylinders about 1 cm in diameter Sometimes quills up to 1m in length can be found here in Sri Lanka - seen in this early 1800s photo. The colour of true cinnamon is a uniform light brown to pale tan. The fragrance is sweet, perfumed, warm and pleasantly woody with no trace of bitterness or dominating pungency. It's best to buy the quills and grind as you require rather than powder, as what's inside can be less than the quality stated on the packet. The three spices above - cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon - are the warming spice ingredients for my Sri Lankan Christmas Cake. Happy Cooking - and do let me know how your cake turns out! And a safe and Happy Christmas from lakeside Negombo, Sri Lanka Anna PS : Wondering where to get True Sri Lankan Cinnamon? Here in Sri Lanka I've discovered a small family company who grow their own spices and will send them all over the world in small, vacuum-packed quantities. Ask for Mr Chandana - a lovely fellow, easy to communicate with and passionate about spices. In my next Spice Voyager recipe I'll be using Cinnamon Alba - the best cinnamon available anywhere ... it's just arrived and I can't wait to try it. This blog also appeared in the December edition of elanka news If you would like to receive my stories and postcards striaght into your mailbox, please consider subscribing to my monthly newsetter. FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram
Negombo's Famous Ceylon Crabs
With so many of Sri Lanka's premium mud crabs exported, I'm up early to find some choice specimens for my Negombo Coconut Crab Curry. Despite the hefty cost, one of the most sought-after dining experiences in Sri Lanka's capital, Colombo, is 'The Ministry of Crab', located in the humming dining hub that is the Old Dutch Hospital. Sri Lankan crab curry is a real delicacy, and along with 'hoppers', a signature dish of the Teardrop Isle. In pre-Covid times, optimistic diners lined up every night hoping for a cancellation to join the those draped with huge linen napkins tucking into enormous crustacea drawn just hours before from the island's lagoons and seas. I've been wanting to prepare crab dishes since I arrived to stay in Negombo 5 months ago, but the local fish markets aren't the best place to go. Sri Lanka's crabs now account for over 10% of their seafood exports, with the very best despatched to Europe and South East Asia - in Singapore it's even called 'Sri Lankan Chilli Crab' - so today I'm trying a different tack. After several months of living on edge of the lagoon, watching fishermen quietly casting nets into powder-grey waters - and at night, rather eerily, those without a boat wading through mangrove shallows with a torch seeking smaller prey - the cooling easterly breeze known in Catholic Negombo as 'the Christmas Wind', finally picks up, heralding a prime time for me to go in search of premium lagoon crabs. Above: I'm staying on the narrow strip of land, on the Western side of the Negombo Lagoon Dawn and dusk are the best times to collect crabs, but, so they say, not at full moon. Wisdom or anecdote? Many believe that crabs moult during the full moon, but this belief probably arises from the fact that the moulting cycle of a market-sized crab is about 30 days and can seem to coincide with lunar cycles, but for younger crabs, where the cycle is 12-15 days, it obviously doesn't hold true. Still, I'm looking forward to the next full moon to test out this age-old anecdote and I'll let you know. Meanwhile, standing astern on his narrow-hulled katamaran, Kumar, my boatman, as thin as his oar, silently punts into my watery garden, his angular form like a stencil against the dawn sky. An imperative chorus cuts the stillness. Thousands of crows are flocking southwards to spend the daylight hours - from, and to where, exactly, I can't discover - but their presence means it's just after 6 am ... I awoke a half hour earlier to the daily mass, broadcast from the nearby church of Santa Barbara. Such are the daily punctuation marks of life on this lagoon. Carl, a retired airport sniffer dog whom I look after, and I perch on boards - I'm happy that this is a two-hulled boat, many have just a single skinny hull). Silence hangs easily between us as mangroved shores recede. Dawn-silvered water ripples rhythmically behind us as we pass the jealously-guarded fishing territories of those lucky enough to have secured the rights to set up small crab hotels, fish cages about a metre square, resting on the lagoon floor. It's languid and lovely, water and air the same colour, misting from view the built-up side of the lagoon where one arrives at Bandaranaike International Airport. Contentedly surrounded by nature - I could happily be punted to the mouth of the lagoon and back - a poignant film moment from 'Siddhartha', Hermann Hesse's allegory of the Buddha, flickers into memory (so I'm paraphrasing ) ... " What can you do Siddhartha?" asks a boat owner of the young man seeking work on the shores of a river in India. "Can you catch fish ?" "No, Sir" "Can you paddle a boat?" "No, Sir" " ... well, what can you do ?" " I can wait". Reality meets reverie as the crab farmer I've arranged to meet punts into view. Following, we eventually meet at his territory, and he greets me, palms together. "Ayubowan". Long life. Heaving up the heavy cages, there's a clattering scramble inside to reveal 10 large black mangrove crabs or Scylla serratas. Although they seem to have plenty of room, this is maximum occupancy, as they'll cannibalise one another if they're not kept well fed. These fellows have been fattened over the last three months on a twice-daily diet of bivalves and fish, with an extra-big meal in the evening to keep them satisfied overnight. Now at about 500 gm each they're soon ready for his main buyer in Singapore. Choosing two frisky (that means they're healthy) specimens, darkly mottled greenish black creatures with healthily marbled legs, he deftly tucks in their claws - called chelipeds (love that word!) - ties them up with strips of cotton cloth, and hands them across to Kumar, while I pass over 2400 Sri Lankan rupees (about AuD$18) to his little boy. We'd already agreed the price, and it's a fair one. Bidding farewell, I call back to ask how often he eats crab. "Too expensive" he says, laughing. At more than the cost of a housekeeper's daily wage, a crab in the cage is certainly worth more than one on the plate. Ready to Cook? . FOLLOW Anna on Facebook and Instagram